Vineyard

This Cerbaiona Brunello seems way more than just the result of its ‘intermediate’ zone located on i.e. not the leaner and more restrained north, nor the richer, more ripe southern portion. No, here and exactly on the Cerbaiona ridge, with its exaggerated and obvious limestone and shale-infused sandy soil, something very individual happens. Citing what he refers to as a somewhat ‘hit or miss’ approach under Cerbaiona founder Diego Molinari, Fioretti has extensively replanted with massale and selected clones which, along with close planting and an incredibly detailed winery overhaul, will take all but the most adverse vintage vagaries out of play and let one of Italy’s greatest vineyard sites, clear to do its thing. This is not at all like other Brunello. It boasts a fragrance and elegance much more reminiscent of the flowers, musk and raspberry/strawberry of Barbaresco’s dress circle of Asili, Martinenga and Rabaja, Neive‘s Santo Stefano or of a young Musigny? You will spend ages unravelling an aromatic profile that also has characteristic notes of woodsy herbs and something I can only describe as ‘hippy perfume’ or incense? Deep, dense, layered yet seamless and fabulously fresh and radiant, Cerbaiona Brunello is unlike any other wine of the Montalcino zone.