The Martinenga Monopole – the original Grand Cru

In their seminal book ‘Italy’s Noble Red Wines’ (1985) - a must-have text - Sheldon and Pauline Wasserman rated Martinenga as the greatest of Barbaresco vineyards, one step higher even than Rabaja and Asili, or the Santo Stefano of Albesani. This was based mainly on their summary of the opinions of local experts and producers rather than anything official or codified. In fact, this repute would have partly been based on wines made by others, as it wasn’t until 1973 that Alberto di Gresy started to vinify Martinenga for themselves. Eventually, of course, at least Asili and Rabaja have been recognised with Martinenga in the top division. From the outskirts of Barbaresco township, you can look down onto the magical natural amphitheatre of 12 ha of Martinenga. The soil here is the classic Tortonian blue-grey limestone marl that constitutes most of the Barbaresco zone.

While there is a bit of Barbera, Cabernet, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon planted, the main game is Nebbiolo, which provides all the material for the beautiful Langhe Nebbiolo and for the three separate Barbaresco bottlings. It is the two famous sub-plots at opposite ends of the Martinenga property, each of which adjoins one of the other of the two acknowledged Grands Cru, that makes this the heartland of Barbaresco. You’ll see from the little map above that the Martinenga sub-plot of Gaiun adjoins the great Asili, and the sub-plot Camp Gros rolls into Rabaja. These three recognised (albeit unofficial) Grands Cru each produce wines that underline the equal status of Barbaresco with Barolo; any day. Martinega Gauin and Martinenga Camp Gros (always released as Riserva) each have absolutely fascinating and distinctive characteristics, but they do echo their respective neighbours, Asili and Rabaja, in both aromatics and feel.