2019 Donato d'Angelo 'Calice' Aglianico del Vulture
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and wife/partner Filomena Ruppi, have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
When you try the utterly thrilling Aglianico del Vulture ‘Calice’ and watch it evolve in the glass, the name entry-level will seem totally inappropriate. This alone will prove what an important variety Aglianico is. It’s generally the younger vines of the D’Angelo plots in the comunes of Ripacandida and Maschito (comunes), but some averaging 30 years. Donato treats this fairly simply with 10-day macerations in concrete tanks followed by about 18 months in large casks.
Like Nebb, Aglianico needs a bit of controlled oxidation, but no wood aromatics for Donato! Instead what unfolds is a gorgeous array of rose, cherry, red plum, raspberry, red flowers, oregano (we all agree on this one), a light dusting of choc powder, along with minerally and ash notes that dart in and out. In a big glass this seems to evolve continuously and eventually opens to a classy ethereal (Touriga-like) cherry-skin waft. All the while it has a real up and fresh zing allied to the very distinctive chalky tannins. All finesse here.
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Very fragrant, sour cherry scents, pomegranate and cranberry whiffs and flavours. Lifted. Crisp in texture, bright, sour cherry tang again, fine yet earthy-chalky tannins shaping things and pulling the wine long and to a succulent, refreshing point. Delicate in a way, but not without structure and strictness. Refreshing, appealing, good. - Mike Bennie, Wine Front
Spicy, peppery. bright red fruit, like cranberry, aniseed, earth. Medium-bodied, fleshy chalky tannin, perky, all strawberry, classic earthiness, bitterness of a Campari-like finish. Very good stuff. Tasty. - Gary Walsh, Wine Front
There are some who say that Aglianico is one of Italy’s top grape varieties – the Nebbiolo of the south. And wines such as this bear this out with expressive aromas, impressive concentration and firm structure to reward the patient. This is a wine with soul that delivers sweet blackberry fruit layered with baked earth, tobacco and old spices with oak sitting gently in the background. A firm, hearty palate follows, more savoury than seen thanks to earthy, tarry, old spice flavours beautifully supported by mouth-coating tannins through to a long and strong finish. A very serious wine from the south. - Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot
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Region - Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
Comune - Ripacandida and Maschito
Variety - Aglianico