Ansitz Waldgries
Winemaking
Sauvignon Blanc ‘MYRA’
-Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks (80%) and a 500 L Tonneau
-A small portion of whole clusters were included without crushing or destemming
Weissburgunder Riserva ‘ITOS’
-Half fermented in stainless steel tanks and half in 500 L Tonneaux
-Matured for 12 months on fine lees and another 2 years in bottle
St. Magdalener Classico
-Equal portions are macerated and fermented in stainless steel tanks and large (Austrian) Tonneaux
-20% whole cluster
St. Magdalener Classico 'ANTHEOS’
-Extended (4-6 weeks) maceration with 20% whole cluster inclusion
-Fermented and aged in large Austrian Tonneuax
Lagrein
-2-3 weeks maceration with 50% whole cluster inclusion
-Fermented and aged in large oak Tonneaux and old Barriques
Lagrein Riserva
-Extended (5 weeks) maceration, with 10% whole cluster inclusion
-Aged for 12 months in a mix of large oak Tonneaux and old Barriques
| Wine | Region/ Comune | Varieties | Soil Type | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MYRA | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Appiano Mountain | Sauvignon Blanc | Calcerous loamy soil | 550 |
| ITOS | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Appiano Mountain | Pinot Bianco | Morainic soils with deposits of limestone and loam | 500 |
| St. Magdalener Classico | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Santa Maddalena | 92% Schiava, 8% Lagrein | Sandy soils comprising glacial till | 250 |
| Antheos | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Santa Maddalena. Hohe Leiten Vineyard | Schiava Gentile, Schiava Grigia, Schiava Tschaggel, Schiava Media, Schiava 'Gschlafener', Schiava 'Edelschwarzer' and Lagrein | Sandy soils comprising glacial till | 250 |
| Lagrein | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Santa Maddalena | Lagrein | Sandy soils comprising glacial till | 250 |
| Lagrein Riserva | Alto-Adige - Bolzano, Gries and Furggl vineyards | Lagrein | Permeable alluvial soils, loam | 250 |
The Essence of Sudtirol
It’s only a very short drive after leaving the bustling A22, to the serenity of Ansitz (‘Residences’) Waldgries, just minutes from the Eastern outskirts of Bolzano. Here amongst buildings dating back to 1242, you will find best-of or benchmark contenders for not one or two, but seriously four of Alto Adige/Sudtirol’s classic varietals; Weissburgunder/Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon (Blanc), Schiava/Vernatsch and Lagrein. In fact, make it 5; better add their consistently fabulous passito-style Rosenmuskateller (Moscato Rosa) to that list. If only we could get some. In effect, Christian Plattner’s Waldgries is one of the top 2-3 producers in the entire region. The property was purchased by the local Plattner family in the 1940s, with the essential aim of honouring nearly a millennium of continuous winemaking from the time of founder Roblinus Waldgries. If you’ve been in this part of the world and walked something like the Weinweg, the impossibly scenic Wine Path that wends its way past Waldgries, you’ll be forgiven for not being sure what era of the last few centuries you’re in. It’s a magic place that does produce magical wines
Viticulture
A note on viticultural practises. It’s no surprise that Christian Plattner has been practising organic farming for almost as long as anyone. What prevents certification for Waldgries, is that most of their varied vineyard plots adjoin others who may or may not be similarly inclined. No matter says Christian, he’s comfortable with his own practices.
To reconnect back four generations and further, to the viticultural heritage of the area, Christian replanted this single-site, Hohe Leiten (High Path), a vineyard of sand and decomposed granite and quartz, with each of the 8 variants of Schiava/ Vernatsch that had been historically used in the Sudtirol, to create his tribute field-blend (with 8% Lagrein). The result is spectacular, and arguably the best expression of Schiava there is.
Large oak conducts all the extended (4-6 weeks) maceration with 20% whole bunch, getting only a few more months of maturation in older wood. This is so self-contained, it does start closed but gradually blossoms to the parade of red fruits of raspberry and cherry, violets, tobacco and spices. It is like Christian’s Burgundy, perhaps more reminiscent to someone like me with Barolo bias, of Castiglione Falletto – but with a real Grenache fleshiness. Superb, ultra-fine powdery finish.
This wine is surely the best Schiava/Vernatsch we’ve seen. It’s also fascinating and a window to the character of Christian Plattner.
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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - St. Magdalener Classico
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Hohe Leiten
Variety - Schiava/Vernatsch
If you’re not a convert to the importance of Pinot Blanc, through the likes of Terlaner’s Vorberg or Nals Margried’s Sirmian, or even its affordable deliciousness via Cantina Kellerei’s Aristos or Tiefenbrunner’s Morus – then maybe it’s time to try this; Waldgries’ intense, multifaceted and supremely balanced masterpiece. The pair of very low-yielding vineyards of Appiano and Schwarzhaus just to the south-west of Bolzano, are the typical glacial moraine, but these are shot through with lots of limestone. This, along with the 500 metre altitude, bodes for aromatics, texture and structure.
“I want my Pinot Blanc full-flavoured, complex and mature” says Christian Plattner “I’m not so keen on the green and steely variant, and so I give the wine 2 years more to develop before we release.”
What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured. There’s so much going on here, with fruits of lemon flower, peach, spring flower and sweet herb, over (under?) lain by minerality, textural notes of cream, bakery and what they call there, ‘hydrocarbon’ - faint whiffs of diesel or clean motor oil. It has massive feel, a fierce structure, yet it’s all so fresh. Christian’s wines all exhibit that wonderful freshness. Thinking that this wine with Stefano’s Murray Cod and Artichokes is about perfection.
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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - Südtirol
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Appiano and Schwarzhaus
Variety - Weissburgunder
If all Sauvignon Blanc was made like Plattner’s ‘MYRA’ they’d be irresistible and treated far more as the wonderful dinner companions these can be. This is so intense, with smoke, minerals, lychee, lantana, passionfruit, sherbet, flint, in fact such a depth and weight that it should be ponderous, yet it’s all in a svelte package, with that house signature zing and freshness. Length of flavour is staggering and coming along with this is a superb savoury, almost salty tang.
At 550 metres, albeit on a southern slope of Appiano, this needs all the low-yield and ripening it can get, but there’s not a hint of greenness or overt herbaceous ness. It’s 80% steel and 20% elevated in foudre, which supplies tons of texture and aromatics.
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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - Südtirol
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Appiano and Schwarzhaus
Variety - Sauvignon Blanc