2020 Waldgries Sudtiroler Weissburgunder Riserva ‘ITOS’

If you’re not a convert to the importance of Pinot Blanc, through the likes of Terlaner’s Vorberg or Nals Margried’s Sirmian, or even its affordable deliciousness via Cantina Kellerei’s Aristos or Tiefenbrunner’s Morus – then maybe it’s time to try this; Waldgries’ intense, multifaceted and supremely balanced masterpiece. The pair of very low-yielding vineyards of Appiano and Schwarzhaus just to the south-west of Bolzano, are the typical glacial moraine, but these are shot through with lots of limestone. This, along with the 500 metre altitude, bodes for aromatics, texture and structure.

“I want my Pinot Blanc full-flavoured, complex and mature” says Christian Plattner “I’m not so keen on the green and steely variant, and so I give the wine 2 years more to develop before we release.”

What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured. There’s so much going on here, with fruits of lemon flower, peach, spring flower and sweet herb, over (under?) lain by minerality, textural notes of cream, bakery and what they call there, ‘hydrocarbon’ - faint whiffs of diesel or clean motor oil. It has massive feel, a fierce structure, yet it’s all so fresh. Christian’s wines all exhibit that wonderful freshness. Thinking that this wine with Stefano’s Murray Cod and Artichokes is about perfection.

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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - Südtirol
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Appiano and Schwarzhaus
Variety - Weissburgunder