Donato D’Angelo
Italy’s Other Truly Great Red
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and Filomena Ruppi have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
Comunes, Contrade & Crus
The DOC of Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is centred on the slopes of the old volcano known as Vulture. We are talking viticulture at 500 metres plus. So even if we can’t get the image of southern Italy’s year-round sunshine out of our heads, we need also to visualise pickers in cardigans. The poor eroded, post-volcanic soils and these modest temperatures, and the naturally tannic nature of Aglianico, help to explain aromatics, structures and finishes much more akin to the Nebbiolo of Barbaresco (comune) or Roero, than to any other nearby indigene, like Primitivo or Montepulciano.
The small DOC at only 520 ha is about 75% the size of say Barbaresco and produces about 230,000 cases of wine per year. Interestingly, most top producers make do with the DOC (1971), rather than the DOCG, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore introduced in 2010. Of the townships/comunes located within the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, the focus is on twelve that contain the notable contrade (a recognised layer of 15 locations) and virtually all the cru – although these latter are still (very) unofficial. One suspects that a meeting of the locals to thrash these identities into a proposal for official recognition would make quite some documentary film. Don’t ‘watch this space’ quite yet, but Aglianico del Vulture will bear similarities and deserve interest when finally mapped out by commune/contrade/cru like Barolo or Barbaresco’s MGAs.
Winemaking
Aglianico del Vulture 'Calice'
-30 year-old vines
-Gentle 10 days maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks
-Aged for 18 months in large wooden casks
Aglianico del Vulture
-50 year-old vines
-Gentle 10 days maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks
-Aged for 18 months in large wooden casks
| Wine | Region/ Comune | Varieties | Soil Type | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aglianico del Vulture 'Calice' | Basilicata, Vulture | Aglianico | Volcanic | 500 |
| Aglianico del Vulture | Basilicata, Vulture | Aglianico | Volcanic | 500 |
