2012 Donato d'Angelo Aglianico del Vulture
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and wife/partner Filomena Ruppi, have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
The DOC of Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is centred on the slopes of the old volcano known as Vulture. We are talking viticulture at 500 metres plus. So even if we can’t get the image of southern Italy’s year-round sunshine out of our heads, we need also to visualise pickers in cardigans. The poor eroded, post-volcanic soils and these modest temperatures, and the naturally tannic nature of Aglianico, help to explain aromatics, structures and finishes much more akin to the Nebbiolo of Barbaresco (comune) or Roero, than to any nearby indigene, like Primitivo or Montepulciano.
The small DOC at only 520 ha is about 75% the size of say Barbaresco, and produces about 230,000 cases of wine per year. Interestingly, most top producers make do with the DOC (1971), rather than the DOCG, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore introduced in 2010. Of the townships/comunes located within the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, the focus is on twelve that contains the notable contrade (a recognised layer of 15 locations) and virtually all the cru – although these latter are still (very) unofficial. One suspects that a meeting of the locals to thrash these identities into a proposal for official recognition would make quite some documentary film. Don’t ‘watch this space’ quite yet, but Aglianico del Vulture will bear similarities and deserve interest when finally mapped out by commune/contrade/cru like Barolo or Barbaresco’s MGAs.
The flagship wine, Aglianico DOC ‘Donato D’Angelo’ is from the 40-50 year-old vines. After the harvest, which takes place in the second half of October, the grapes undergo fermentation in cement fermentation vats for approximately 10 days. Once the wine has been matured and racked, it is aged for at least 18 months in wooden casks.
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Deep red-ruby. Knockout perfume of red cherry, herbs, pomegranate, blood orange and violet. Dense and weightless; floral red cherry and spicy flavours offer outstanding precision and a silky texture. Wonderfully balanced, finished with outstanding lift and class. Wonderful, age-worthy Aglianico del Vulture. - Ian D’Agata, Vinous
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Region - Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
Comune - Ripacandida and Maschito
Variety - Aglianico