Donato D’Angelo
Italy’s Other Truly Great Red
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and Filomena Ruppi have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
Comunes, Contrade & Crus
The DOC of Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is centred on the slopes of the old volcano known as Vulture. We are talking viticulture at 500 metres plus. So even if we can’t get the image of southern Italy’s year-round sunshine out of our heads, we need also to visualise pickers in cardigans. The poor eroded, post-volcanic soils and these modest temperatures, and the naturally tannic nature of Aglianico, help to explain aromatics, structures and finishes much more akin to the Nebbiolo of Barbaresco (comune) or Roero, than to any other nearby indigene, like Primitivo or Montepulciano.
The small DOC at only 520 ha is about 75% the size of say Barbaresco and produces about 230,000 cases of wine per year. Interestingly, most top producers make do with the DOC (1971), rather than the DOCG, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore introduced in 2010. Of the townships/comunes located within the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, the focus is on twelve that contain the notable contrade (a recognised layer of 15 locations) and virtually all the cru – although these latter are still (very) unofficial. One suspects that a meeting of the locals to thrash these identities into a proposal for official recognition would make quite some documentary film. Don’t ‘watch this space’ quite yet, but Aglianico del Vulture will bear similarities and deserve interest when finally mapped out by commune/contrade/cru like Barolo or Barbaresco’s MGAs.
Winemaking
Aglianico del Vulture 'Calice'
-30 year-old vines
-Gentle 10 days maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks
-Aged for 18 months in large wooden casks
Aglianico del Vulture
-50 year-old vines
-Gentle 10 days maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks
-Aged for 18 months in large wooden casks
| Wine | Region/ Comune | Varieties | Soil Type | Altitude |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aglianico del Vulture 'Calice' | Basilicata, Vulture | Aglianico | Volcanic | 500 |
| Aglianico del Vulture | Basilicata, Vulture | Aglianico | Volcanic | 500 |
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and wife/partner Filomena Ruppi, have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
The DOC of Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is centred on the slopes of the old volcano known as Vulture. We are talking viticulture at 500 metres plus. So even if we can’t get the image of southern Italy’s year-round sunshine out of our heads, we need also to visualise pickers in cardigans. The poor eroded, post-volcanic soils and these modest temperatures, and the naturally tannic nature of Aglianico, help to explain aromatics, structures and finishes much more akin to the Nebbiolo of Barbaresco (comune) or Roero, than to any nearby indigene, like Primitivo or Montepulciano.
The small DOC at only 520 ha is about 75% the size of say Barbaresco, and produces about 230,000 cases of wine per year. Interestingly, most top producers make do with the DOC (1971), rather than the DOCG, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore introduced in 2010. Of the townships/comunes located within the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, the focus is on twelve that contains the notable contrade (a recognised layer of 15 locations) and virtually all the cru – although these latter are still (very) unofficial. One suspects that a meeting of the locals to thrash these identities into a proposal for official recognition would make quite some documentary film. Don’t ‘watch this space’ quite yet, but Aglianico del Vulture will bear similarities and deserve interest when finally mapped out by commune/contrade/cru like Barolo or Barbaresco’s MGAs.
The flagship wine, Aglianico DOC ‘Donato D’Angelo’ is from the 40-50 year-old vines. After the harvest, which takes place in the second half of October, the grapes undergo fermentation in cement fermentation vats for approximately 10 days. Once the wine has been matured and racked, it is aged for at least 18 months in wooden casks.
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Deep red-ruby. Knockout perfume of red cherry, herbs, pomegranate, blood orange and violet. Dense and weightless; floral red cherry and spicy flavours offer outstanding precision and a silky texture. Wonderfully balanced, finished with outstanding lift and class. Wonderful, age-worthy Aglianico del Vulture. - Ian D’Agata, Vinous
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Region - Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
Comune - Ripacandida and Maschito
Variety - Aglianico
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and wife/partner Filomena Ruppi, have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
When you try the utterly thrilling Aglianico del Vulture ‘Calice’ and watch it evolve in the glass, the name entry-level will seem totally inappropriate. This alone will prove what an important variety Aglianico is. It’s generally the younger vines of the D’Angelo plots in the comunes of Ripacandida and Maschito (comunes), but some averaging 30 years. Donato treats this fairly simply with 10-day macerations in concrete tanks followed by about 18 months in large casks.
Like Nebb, Aglianico needs a bit of controlled oxidation, but no wood aromatics for Donato! Instead what unfolds is a gorgeous array of rose, cherry, red plum, raspberry, red flowers, oregano (we all agree on this one), a light dusting of choc powder, along with minerally and ash notes that dart in and out. In a big glass this seems to evolve continuously and eventually opens to a classy ethereal (Touriga-like) cherry-skin waft. All the while it has a real up and fresh zing allied to the very distinctive chalky tannins. All finesse here.
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Very fragrant, sour cherry scents, pomegranate and cranberry whiffs and flavours. Lifted. Crisp in texture, bright, sour cherry tang again, fine yet earthy-chalky tannins shaping things and pulling the wine long and to a succulent, refreshing point. Delicate in a way, but not without structure and strictness. Refreshing, appealing, good. - Mike Bennie, Wine Front
Spicy, peppery. bright red fruit, like cranberry, aniseed, earth. Medium-bodied, fleshy chalky tannin, perky, all strawberry, classic earthiness, bitterness of a Campari-like finish. Very good stuff. Tasty. - Gary Walsh, Wine Front
There are some who say that Aglianico is one of Italy’s top grape varieties – the Nebbiolo of the south. And wines such as this bear this out with expressive aromas, impressive concentration and firm structure to reward the patient. This is a wine with soul that delivers sweet blackberry fruit layered with baked earth, tobacco and old spices with oak sitting gently in the background. A firm, hearty palate follows, more savoury than seen thanks to earthy, tarry, old spice flavours beautifully supported by mouth-coating tannins through to a long and strong finish. A very serious wine from the south. - Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot
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Region - Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
Comune - Ripacandida and Maschito
Variety - Aglianico
Historically, the D’Angelo name is unarguably the most important in Aglianico – at least in its most important DOC, Aglianico del Vulture. Almost all references, whether decades-old or recent, reference the D’Angelo name and more specifically, Donato, as the master-maker of the zone. After shaking off the setback of an unfortunate family feud (some sources insist on referring to treachery), Donato and wife/partner Filomena Ruppi, have emerged as the makers of the most thrilling, radiant and complex Aglianico wines. Of those three descriptors, we will almost all likely come to emphasise the radiance of these fascinating, up, fresh and lively noble reds.
The DOC of Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata is centred on the slopes of the old volcano known as Vulture. We are talking viticulture at 500 metres plus. So even if we can’t get the image of southern Italy’s year-round sunshine out of our heads, we need also to visualise pickers in cardigans. The poor eroded, post-volcanic soils and these modest temperatures, and the naturally tannic nature of Aglianico, help to explain aromatics, structures and finishes much more akin to the Nebbiolo of Barbaresco (comune) or Roero, than to any nearby indigene, like Primitivo or Montepulciano.
The small DOC at only 520 ha is about 75% the size of say Barbaresco, and produces about 230,000 cases of wine per year. Interestingly, most top producers make do with the DOC (1971), rather than the DOCG, Aglianico del Vulture Superiore introduced in 2010. Of the townships/comunes located within the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, the focus is on twelve that contains the notable contrade (a recognised layer of 15 locations) and virtually all the cru – although these latter are still (very) unofficial. One suspects that a meeting of the locals to thrash these identities into a proposal for official recognition would make quite some documentary film. Don’t ‘watch this space’ quite yet, but Aglianico del Vulture will bear similarities and deserve interest when finally mapped out by commune/contrade/cru like Barolo or Barbaresco’s MGAs.
The flagship wine, Aglianico DOC ‘Donato D’Angelo’ is from the 40-50 year-old vines. After the harvest, which takes place in the second half of October, the grapes undergo fermentation in cement fermentation vats for approximately 10 days. Once the wine has been matured and racked, it is aged for at least 18 months in wooden casks.
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One hundred percent Aglianico grown in the central southern Italian region of Basilicata at around 500m elevation in vineyards averaging around 50 years of age. Overperforming all its varietal touch-points, the first perfumed impressions tumble together; top notes of dark rose petal and rubbed kitchen herbs, with background auto suggestions (or real) of crushed volcanic rocks. Brilliant, bright red raspberry fruit flavours follow, then the grape’s natural chalky to gravelly tannins that are generous enough to allow, with every sip, wave after wave of those fragrances and echoing fresh fruit acidity. Rusticity, earthy yet incredibly expressive. A genuine drinking pleasure. - Tony Love, Wine Pilot
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Region - Aglianico del Vulture DOCG
Comune - Ripacandida and Maschito
Variety - Aglianico