2017 Boasso Barolo 'Gabutti'
The Boasso family collection of Serralunga vineyards reads pretty well. All wines come from a series of plots in either Gabutti itself, where home is, and 10 contiguous plots adjoin the Cappellano holdings, from Margheria, where two plots lie immediately below Massolino’s, or from Meriame, Le Turne and Cerrati, which provide some Nebbiolo, but are mostly the source of the brilliant Dolcetto, Barbera and the delicious Moscato. Their portion of Lazzarito, from which Claudio says they will release a Cru in 2020, lies immediately below Vietti’s larger parcel of this famed Cru. Serralunga personality shows in all these wines.
These are tannic; there’s no other way to put it. If you want to show what traditionally made, flawless and totally terroir-driven Serralunga looks, smells and feels like, these are it. They do take a bit of air to crack open, but the rewards are probably exactly what you imagine of the ideal Serralunga. Graphite, smoke, maybe some darker cherry, porcini, liquorice and pepper. Black tea tannins and up-acidity see the wines out. All varieties (well the reds anyway) are Serralunga first.
Experimentation, with shorter ferments and smaller wood, didn’t last long here. Things are essentially ‘enlightened traditional’. After 10-15 days in steel to ferment, and another 10 on submerged cap, the Gabutti is aged for three years in 10 hl Slavonian barrels.
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‘Franco (Boasso) has for some years been one of the best wine producers in the Serralunga area. His wines faithfully reflect the terroir and are based on traditional techniques with long maceration periods and the use of large Slavonian oak barrels’ - Bibenda – The Italian Sommeliers Association
‘From the Gabutti cru located in the middle of Serralunga d’Alba. Pale, vibrant ruby colour. Pungent aromas of blackcurrant, ripe blood orange tempered by deep dark chocolate and tarry graphite notes. Sweet and ripe tannins coat the palate with a cocoa powder-like texture. Bountiful power and presence followed by a long, savoury finish and a glimpse of heat. Despite the ripe fruited generosity, there is a taut restraint to this wine. It is seductive and will only improve with time while calling for a dry-aged rib-eye steak with pepper sauce!’ Marcell Kustos, Wine Pilot
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Region - Barolo DOCG
Comune - Serralunga d’Alba
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Gabutti
Variety - Nebbiolo