2017 Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monvigliero'
Since the very early 20th century, generations of the Sordo family have been quietly collecting parcels of the finest Nebbiolo-growing soil in the Langhe. They now have numerous plots of vines in Roero, Barbaresco and particularly Barolo – where they actually own 17 pieces of cru classified vineyard and release an unprecedented 8 labelled (Barolo) cru wines from these, so far. A 9th may not be far off. These are a cavalcade of Barolos most famous names – many of them appearing in any list of Barolos Top 10 cru; Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato; the one most thought was Giuseppe Mascarello’s monopole, isnt quite. Sordo started making theirs from 2013. Prior to that its been going into the normale.
The cru wines are all vinified the same way, a suitable lens to examine the differences between each site. Vinification is in controlled temperature of 30°, with submerged caps for up to 50 days. A further 2-4 months in steel, is followed by 24 months in large Slavonian botti. Giorgio Sordo likes the wines to have a further 4-6 months in steel, to “freshen them up” before bottling.
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Bold perfume, ripe cherry, rhubarb, white pepper, truffle, a bit of game meat and alpine herb. Inviting. Juicy and succulent, primary fruited, red and black cherry sweetness underpinned with more alpine herb, pepper, clove and sage leaf with loads of crushed rock granitic minerality. Crisp tannins, mouth-watering freshness despite the potency here. - Mike Bennie, Wine Front
From the famed Monvigliero vineyard in the Verduno commune, regarded as a grand cru though not officially cited as one, this wine has some serious personality to it, and lots to unpack for the senses – lots of little hints as you go in deep. There’s subtle cherry as often is the case, with top notes of lavender and delicate mint leaf. More earth-bound are spice, white pepper, pencil case and lead feels – the winemaking regime includes a seven-week maceration in stainless steel, then two years in large Slavonian vats, though no oak impacts the wine. Tannins are subtle too, almost benign, allowing all the savoury elements and flavours to flow on and on, keeping the palate endlessly fascinating. Bound to carry itself grandly in every dining scenario. - Tony Love, Wine Pilot
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Region - Barolo DOCG
Comune - Verduno
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Monvigliero
Variety - Nebbiolo