2017 Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno'

Since the very early 20th century, generations of the Sordo family have been quietly collecting parcels of the finest Nebbiolo-growing soil in the Langhe. They now have numerous plots of vines in Roero, Barbaresco and particularly Barolo – where they actually own 17 pieces of cru classified vineyard and release an unprecedented 8 labelled (Barolo) cru wines from these, so far. A 9th may not be far off. These are a cavalcade of Barolos most famous names – many of them appearing in any list of Barolos Top 10 cru; Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato; the one most thought was Giuseppe Mascarello’s monopole, isnt quite. Sordo started making theirs from 2013. Prior to that its been going into the normale.

The cru wines are all vinified the same way, a suitable lens to examine the differences between each site. Vinification is in controlled temperature of 30°, with submerged caps for up to 50 days. A further 2-4 months in steel, is followed by 24 months in large Slavonian botti. Giorgio Sordo likes the wines to have a further 4-6 months in steel, to “freshen them up” before bottling.

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From the Commune of Monforte d’Alba, and unsurprisingly the fragrant notes have the sense of purple flowers with a woodiness, maybe even some minted feels. Grounded too – earth and brick dust, while sweeter joys come in the form of cherry liqueur flavours. All these elements are woven together, and seem almost to float at first above a seam of tannins, though eventually that coating wraps and encloses the palate. Complex, resolved and most satisfying. - Tony Love, Wine Pilot

Spicy red-fruit aromas and flavors here with some attractive fresh-licorice and aniseed notes. Medium-to full-bodied with a tight tannin framework and a flavorful, savory finish. Very tasty now, but needs a year or two to mellow. Drink from 2023. - James Suckling

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Region - Barolo DOCG
Comune - Monforte d’Alba
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Perno
Variety - Nebbiolo