2017 Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Villero'
Since the very early 20th century, generations of the Sordo family have been quietly collecting parcels of the finest Nebbiolo-growing soil in the Langhe. They now have numerous plots of vines in Roero, Barbaresco and particularly Barolo – where they actually own 17 pieces of cru classified vineyard and release an unprecedented 8 labelled (Barolo) cru wines from these, so far. A 9th may not be far off. These are a cavalcade of Barolos most famous names – many of them appearing in any list of Barolos Top 10 cru; Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato; the one most thought was Giuseppe Mascarello’s monopole, isnt quite. Sordo started making theirs from 2013. Prior to that its been going into the normale.
The cru wines are all vinified the same way, a suitable lens to examine the differences between each site. Vinification is in controlled temperature of 30°, with submerged caps for up to 50 days. A further 2-4 months in steel, is followed by 24 months in large Slavonian botti. Giorgio Sordo likes the wines to have a further 4-6 months in steel, to “freshen them up” before bottling.
Villero is an undisputed Grand Cru of Barolo. It is the epitome of elegance and power.
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‘If your goal is to grasp the uniqueness of a vineyard and, above all, of the wines it produces, the only way to reach it is by comparisons. Among many possible examples, the one I refer to most frequently is between Villero and Rocche di Castiglione.
Rocche di Castiglione and Villero are divided only by the road that runs along the ridge. On both sides sandy Sant’Agata Fossili Marls dominates, but what changes substantially is the exposure: Rocche di Castiglione faces southeast, Villero (at least the visible part) faces southwest. Villero should therefore render wines that are warmer and richer in body, though less fruity than those of Rocche. And so it does’ - Alessando Masnaghetti, Barolo MGA
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Region - Barolo DOCG
Comune - Castiglione Falletto
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Villero
Variety - Nebbiolo