2020 Waldgries Sudtiroler Lagrein Riserva

‘Wild and muscular. Fine and elegant. Like a human being. I want my Lagrein to be expressive, so I work with low yields and long macerations’

The conventional wisdom has (or at least had) it, that the way to make Lagrein more ‘important’ was to juice it up with Cabernet and new oak. Christian Plattner had other ideas. He’s taken low-yield grapes from their little vineyard, Gries just inside the Bolzano city limits, for its fruit and elegance and from a half-hour south at Ora (near Franz Haas), the Funggl vineyard gives muscularity and firmness. This adds something like the graphite character of Petit Verdot, adding to quite an array of characteristics in both aromatics and feel.

A long maceration of up to 5 weeks, with 10% whole bunch and only about 12 months in a mix of large wood and barriques, serves to showcase rather than subsume, one mighty Lagrein. The result is a ‘glossy’ red, born of its fruit quality and components rather than being a show pony of indeterminate provenance. As it opens a parade of Lagrein characteristics goes on show; blueberry, darkest cherry, deep red-purple plum, graphite/smoke, coffee grounds, bitter chocolate, licorice and sweet spices with rosemary and almond essence notes that dart in and out. The palate is full, long and taught. The finish is brilliant and echoes the coffee grounds, even to a slight bitterness that is wonderful and seems to be a signature. Especially with this latter in mind, dishes like a braised rabbit, a seared tuna steak or baked eggplant to pick up on this grip, would do pretty well.

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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - Südtirol
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Gries and Funggl
Variety - Lagrein