2021 Waldgries Sudtiroler St. Magdalener Classico

We can see why Schiava has become a fairly hot-ticket item in the last 4-5 years here. The base aromatics of well-made Schiava, of raspberry, cherry and cherry stone, with terroir additions, in a wine that is juicy, even lush, and nicely shaped for the table, does indeed suggest this is Italy’s Beaujolais. The extra minerality and structure/finish of these can take them even a little bit better, to me.

Plattner uses the St. Magdalener DOC (which allows a little addition, in this case of about 8% Lagrein) and takes his Schiava (they actually call it Vernatsch) from their vineyard at Santa Maddalena (St Magdalener), not high at 250 metres, but a very sandy site with decomposed granite that gets fruit ripe and also maintains structure and zing. In fact here are apparently the earliest ripening vineyards in the Sudtirol. Equal portions are macerated and fermented in steel and large (Austrian) wood, with 20% whole bunch.

Christian introduces a slightly different model or benchmark to mine, explaining that his inspiration are the Pinots of the Côtes de Nuits. No real argument from me, and I’d go specifically Nuits-St-Georges, as a style parallel. What these Schiavas have over the very slow-blossoming Nuits-St-Georges, are a more immediate evolution and drinkability. So indeed, deep red fruits are the opening, and obvious through the aromatics in the juicy flavours, and this is surprisingly lush long and zingy. This brilliant red is both immediate, broadly food-friendly and also fascinating and capable of evolution in either the glass, now, or for a stay in bottle.

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Region - Alto Adige DOC
Comune - St. Magdalener Classico
MGA/Vineyard/Cru - Hohe Leiten
Variety - Schiava/Vernatsch